Month: June 2015

The Modern History Of Ultra-thin Watches Back

Miniaturization has always been one of the main goals of the watchmaking industry. With the advent of complex timepieces and the development of watches, this topic has become increasingly important. Integrating multiple functions into a single movement, while ensuring the wearability of the watch, it is necessary to rebuild the space. This trend, and the desire for elegance, has led to the development of Ultra-thinWatch. It became popular in the 1960s, and was slightly forgotten in the 2000s (the popularity of ‘big’ watches). Nowadays, ultra-thin watches have returned strongly. Major watchmaking brands such as Piaget, BVLGARI and Audemars Piguet are competing.

1997 Piaget Calibre 9P manual winding movement (left); Piaget Calibre 12P automatic winding movement 1960 (right)

   The concept of ultra-thin watches is not new, but Piaget and the iconic Altiplano, Piaget, bring it to the spotlight. In 1957, Piaget introduced the thinnest mechanical movement at the time-Calibre9P. This ultra-thin hand-wound movement is only 2 millimeters thick, and the watch assembled will hardly exceed 4 millimeters. Considering the lack of computer-aided equipment of that era, Calibre9P is still considered an incredible improvement to this day.

   A few years later, in 1960, Piaget launched the Calibre 12P automatic movement in the same pursuit of slimness. The thickness of this movement is 2.30 millimeters, and it introduces the relatively new concept of Micro-rotor. Self-winding watches are usually equipped with a central rotor, a small rotor, a smaller size, integrated layout, and the same height as the bridge, reducing the thickness of the movement and even the watch. The Calibre9P and Calibre12P movements set the tone for decades of development and gave Piaget the reputation it still enjoys today.

Piaget Calibre 20P movement, its prototype is Jean Lassale Calibre 1200 movement (hand-wound movement only 1.2 mm thick)

   The ultra-thin movement is complex and fragile, and few manufacturers are willing to try it, let alone achieve success. However, Piaget is not the only manufacturer involved in the ultra-thin field. Another notable name in the field is Jean Lassale. Calibre 1200, designed by the Swiss watch company, is only 1.2 mm thick and is still the thinnest mechanical movement to date.

   In order to achieve extreme slimness, the Calibre 1200 abandons the upper bridge plate and directly fixes all wheel trains (except the balance wheel) on the bottom plate. The spring barrel and the wheel train are suspended and supported by ball bearings. Subsequently, the Calibre2000 automatic winding movement with a thickness of 2.08 mm was successfully developed. Produced from 1976 to 1979, these movements proved to be very fragile (almost impossible to disassemble and repair) and unreliable. Later, the ‘JeanLassale’ name was sold to Seiko, and technical documents and patents were acquired by NouvelleLemania, which continued to produce improved versions of these movements for brands such as Piaget (Lemania1210 and Romania2010) and Vacheron Constantin (Calibre1160 and Calibre1170).

Concord Delirium IV quartz watch slim profile, only 0.98 mm thick

   At the same time, the rapid progress of quartz technology has led to the development of ultra-thin watches. The replacement of complex mechanical movements with electronic components opens up even thinner possibilities. The best example of an ultra-thin quartz watch is the ConcordDelirium, which was introduced in 1979. It was the thinnest watch at that time, only 1.98 mm thick. The subsequent release of the Delirium2 watch further reduced its thickness to 1.5 mm. In the end, the Delirium IV watch ended the battle by using the case back as the bottom plate of the movement to achieve an extreme slimness of 0.98 mm. Later, in 1983, Swatch produced plastic watches, and Piaget developed the Calibre 900P movement, both of which adopted this technology.

   Although the quartz crisis has had a negative impact on the Swiss watchmaking industry, the ultra-thin race has not stopped. In 1986, Audemars Piguet launched the Ref.25643 watch equipped with the Calibre 2870 self-winding movement. This was the first tourbillon watch produced in the series. Until recently, it was the thinnest tourbillon watch. The extraordinary excellence of the Ref.25643 watch and Calibre 2870 movement is reflected in all aspects. The Ref.25643 watch’s tourbillon frame is extremely small, measuring just 7.2 mm and 2.5 mm in diameter and height, respectively, and made of titanium. The automatic winding function is realized by the ‘pendulum’, not the pendulum. The movement abandons the bottom plate, and the parts are directly fixed on the case back. This is a very clever way to reduce the thickness.

Audemars Piguet Ref.25643, the first tourbillon watch produced in the series, equipped with Calibre 2870 self-winding movement, thickness 4.8 mm

   After many years, the concept of ultra-thin watches has returned to the center of the stage. Not surprisingly, thanks to Piaget. Of course, several ultra-thin watches were produced during this period. Patek Philippe has not stopped the production of Nautilus or Calatrava watches (equipped with Calibre 324 or Calibre 240), and Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet have not abandoned ultra-thin timepieces. In the 2010s, the race for ultra-thin watchmaking resumed, and the last two years have been the new golden age of ultra-thin watches. (Photo / text watch home compiled by Xu Chaoyang)

Ladies’ Watch Entry-level Worth 10,000 Watches

A woman with real taste will not only focus her perspective on appearance, but will extend to every detail. Watches may only be representative of male identity, but as a tasteful woman, they also need to improve their charm of details. Compared with jewellery, perhaps the watch is not enough dazzling, but has a low-key sense of luxury, which is the details created for women with meaning. There are ‘basic models’ in jewellery brands and ‘practical classics’ in watch brands. There is no trend change in the era of watches. A simple design style can maintain your eternal elegance. Now, let’s take a look at the entry-level style recommended by the editor, and the price of 10,000 yuan will be included in the bag.

 Omega Constellation Series Reference Price: RMB 43,500

 Star demonstration: Zhang Ziyi

 As one of the classic series in the Omega family, the constellation watch is the first choice for most women in watch brands. The Omega Constellation series is based on the famous ‘Griffes’ and eye-catching dials, showing the timeless and charming design concept. This luxury watch is made of stainless steel and covered with abrasion-resistant sapphire crystal. Simple and elegant style, whether it is daily dressing or attending a dinner, it will be a classic and practical style.

 Chanel Premiere reference price: RMB 34,600

 Star demonstration: Yao Chen

 In Chanel’s watch empire, the Premiere watch should be the most popular one. It does not have ‘professional’ technical functions, but it will always be the most fashionable style. Following the traditional octagonal shape, the dial has no scale and no seconds. This is also the first Chanel Premiere watch specially designed for women launched by the brand in 1987. With such a watch, you have both luxury and fashion.

 Cartier Blue Balloon series reference price: RMB 35,300

 Star demonstration: Angelababy & Ke Zhendong

 A perfect fusion of classic and innovative Cartier Blue balloon watch series, it is definitely the choice of discerning women. Deep blue reflects mature wisdom; the delicate circle enjoys the fun of time. Inheriting the classic iconic features of the blue balloon series-the attractive crown made of convex sapphire, and the streamlined case that looks round and non-circular-yet it is new and leading the trend, and it is also the best choice for luxury taste .

 Chopard Happy Sport series reference price: RMB 53,000

 Star demonstration: Victoria’s Secret supermodel Irene Heatherton

 The jewellery in the Chopard Happy Sport family always gives people a relaxed and happy design sense, and the Happy Sport series watches also have this magic. The exquisite and cute design promotes the spirit of dynamic energy, and continues the classic style of Chopard watches. The dial uses movable diamonds to create infinitely diverse changes, showing the infinite creativity of Chopard’s exquisite craftsmanship and jewellery design. The Roman numeral time scale is full of classic elegance. Therefore, it is most suitable for young and active women.

 Chaumet Paris Class One 2013 series reference price: RMB 40700

 Celebrity demonstration: French actress Emma Zodolovsky

 In this ‘Crown Family’ jewelry brand, the Class One series watch is presented with a new look, the watches are made of different materials and designs. Can be arbitrarily matched, so as to perfectly interpret your fashionable and casual life attitude. The unidirectional rotating case is engraved with elegant punctuation and inlaid with the most iconic CHAUMET PARIS brand logo. The pure white chassis and diamond-encrusted dial present stylish and exquisite watchmaking skills, as well as the self-confidence of modern women. But the price of the Class One series doesn’t let you stay away. The moderate price is definitely a style that you can reward yourself.

Richard Mill, The Younger Generation Is Storming Orange

For any sport or event, ‘young’ is more like a double-edged sword. It can give people more impulse, but it also affects judgment because of lack of experience. In March, Lando Norris, who just turned 19, officially joined McLaren. This means that the younger generation is gradually beginning to lead the development of the era, including faster speed, wider vision, and stronger capabilities.

McLaren Team
 The McLaren team is one of the most successful private teams in Formula 1 history, and the car’s signature fluorescent orange coating makes it stand out from the crowd as long as it appears in the public eye. Landor Norris has grown up in the team’s youth driver training program, and Lewis Hamilton is his idol.

 The path of genius growth is always special. From the age of 7, Lando has started training in karts. In 2017, when he was only 17 years old, he won the European F3 championship. In 2019, after he officially joined the McLaren team, in the four races he has completed, he scored 12 points for the team, even more than his teammate Sainz, becoming the team’s current number one. Rider. However, he was not proud of his achievements. He said, ‘I want to learn from Lucerne. There will be no competition between us, and we will not think of overcoming our teammates in the score.’

Landor Norris and teammate Lucerne

 Indeed, compared to other events, the F1 event may rely more on the strength of this team. If F2 only depends on the ability of the individual, then F2 looks at the synergy of the entire team, Lando’s ability to the team He also has his own opinion: ‘F1, this is really a team at work. There are almost 20 people in each team. Drivers need to work very closely with technicians. All aspects of the team’s work must be involved. And each team is An independent design team, 90% of each car is different. Everyone works together to help you as much as possible. Many people in the maintenance room are listening to the team broadcast, everyone is discussing how Can make the car perform better, what adjustments to make in the next stage. As a driver, you are also more responsible, and you must show good performance to show the ability of the car. Fortunately, I also have a little experience now, I can be in the race Tell the team what I want. ‘

Collaboration among fleet members

 Formula 1’s most noticed period in China should be the heyday of ‘Car King’ Schumacher, from the late 1990s to the early millennium, in his 16-year career, almost every record was set. The seven championships have deeply imprinted his name on the historical milestone of Formula One Formula One. Even China, which has only been in contact with this event since the 1990s, has an indelible passion for F1.

 Among the fine watchmaking brands, RICHARD has a near-enthusiastic love for F1.
MILLE will certainly not miss the moment to witness the speed of every moment. The same pursuit of excitement, speed and breakthrough Richard Mille brand has deep roots with F1. Brand friend Jean
Todt is the current FIA President. To this end, Richard Mill has launched three masterpieces of limited edition Jean Todt watches: RM 11-03, RM
050 and RM 056 Jean Todt 50th Anniversary of his career to commemorate his fiftie years of racing roar.

Three F1 teams supported by Richard Mill

Randall Norris, best friend of the McLaren F1 team

Romain Grosjean, brand friend of the Richard Mille of the Haas F1 team

 This year, the track of the Shanghai International Circuit welcomes the commemorative week of F1 thousand.
The timing of F1 races is not multi-year, using a single annual league system, accumulating annual points to determine the performance of drivers and teams in order to produce a championship. Of all the competitions held in the F1 competition, Europe is the most hosted, North America is the second, and Oceania is the least. There are 16 to 17 races planned each year (20 races in the 2012 season), usually starting around mid-March and ending the season at the end of October. The Shanghai F1 circuit, which started in October 2002 and was completed in June 2004, has also witnessed countless glories.

 At the Shanghai International Circuit on April 14th, ten teams and 20 drivers drove fiercely on the racing track. RICHARD
MILLE’s three partner teams include Alfa Romeo Racing and Haas F1
Team) and the McLaren F1 Team as we know it.

Iconic orange-painted McLaren F1 Team

 The three teams each have their own characteristics. Whether it is from the technical strength of the driver or the overall coordination of the team, the three teams will not disappoint the audience. Just like RICHARD MILLE, it never disappointed us. When it comes to innovation in watchmaking, RICHARD MILLE must be among the best. Adopting high-tech technology, integrating cutting-edge thinking and integration, each time RICHARD MILLE launches a new watch, it will redefine the concept of watch technology in the industry.

RICHARD MILLE RM 50-03 McLaren F1 Ultralight Double Seconds Chasing Tourbillon Chronograph

 In 2017, RICHARD MILLE and McLaren-Honda (McLaren), using superb watchmaking craftsmanship, to create RM 50-03 McLAREN F1 ultralight double-second chase tourbillon chronograph, with a weight of less than 40 grams Won the most timepiece manufacture, continuing the legend of brand watchmaking.

RICHARD MILLE RM 50-03 McLaren F1 Ultralight Two Seconds Chasing Tourbillon Chronograph Dial Details

 Graphene is a two-dimensional carbon nanomaterial with hexagonal honeycomb lattice composed of carbon atoms with sp² hybrid orbitals. The brand introduced this brand-new material into the creation of the case. This material allows the case to reduce weight to the greatest extent, making this watch lighter. In addition, this watch not only retains ergonomics and a unique stunning appearance, but also adds ultra-high shock resistance and ultra-lightweight characteristics.

RICHARD MILLE RM 50-03 McLaren F1 Ultralight Double Seconds Chasing Tourbillon Chronograph

 The younger generation is blowing an unstoppable orange storm with Richard Mill, showing the passion of the new generation at the speed of light. For RICHARD MILLE
In other words, the passion of watchmaking and the speed of chasing self are the eternal theme of the brand. RICHARD MILLE will never stop the rapid pace because it has already stood high.