Month: July 2018

Watch Moon Phase: Look Down At The Moon

Although the moon phase function has now been undeniably ‘reputed’ as the ‘complex function with the least practical value’, aside from the utilitarian heart, ‘looking down at the moon’ may be another. Quaint and romantic retreat. Girard Perregaux 1966 Women’s Moon Phase Watch Breguet Grande Complication 18K Gold Watch Parmigiani Tonda Almanac: equipped with the PF339 self-winding perpetual calendar movement developed by the brand, with North and South moon phases display. IWC Large Pilot Series TOPGUN Navy Air Combat Perpetual Calendar Watch
Although the moon phase function has now been unanimously ‘honored’ as the ‘complex function with the least practical value’, aside from the utilitarian heart, ‘looking down at the moon’ is another quaint romantic retreat.
29.5-135 gears for excellence
The working principle of the moon phase structure is relatively easy to understand. The most common is to have a gear with 59 teeth to rotate. Each tooth is one day, and one revolution is two lunar months. So why is it 59 teeth, and why can’t it be a month as conventionally thought? This starts with the particularity of the lunar calendar.
Unlike the Gregorian calendar that goes with the sun, the lunar calendar follows the cycle of the moon. In the operation of the moon, a complete cycle of profit and loss is completed. The big month is 30 days and the small month is 29 days. Therefore, the average phase of the moon phase profit and loss is 29.5 days, but we have no way to make 29.5 teeth. An integer, the moon phase disk becomes 29.5 times 2-59 teeth.
Because there are two profit and loss indications in one turn, there are actually two moons on the moon phase disk in the movement. Each of them stands for a month like a shift and is gazed by the wearer. Reflected on the disk surface, most of them are semi-circular windows-this does not hesitate to inherit the ancient concept of ‘circle place’, assuming that the sky people see is semi-circular-the bottom of the window is not straight , But presents the curvature of two meniscuses, so that the simplest occlusion effect shows the incomplete moon phases such as Emei and Lunar Moons. Whenever the fifteenth lunar calendar comes, the moon pattern will appear completely in the middle of the window without obstruction.
However, the direct consequence of the 59 gears is that the moon phase will accumulate errors of up to 24 hours every two and a half years. At this time, there is no other way than manual adjustment.
With such a big deviation, the watchmakers who strive for excellence are certainly unbearable. So after 59 teeth, a moon phase chart of 135 teeth appeared. This 135 tooth is not to say that the number of teeth on the edge of a moon phase disk has increased from 59 to 135, but a group of teeth. 135 teeth complicate the single disc surface of the old moon phase watch into a group of gears, and the gears in the group cooperate with each other through the transmission system to complete more precise travel time. The number of teeth in this group of gears adds up to 120-135 .
Blancpain Villeret full-month moon phase watch: you can adjust any of the chronograph functions anytime, anywhere without worrying about the mechanical operation of the watch. The Chopard L.U.C Lunar Big Date watch: simultaneously displays the moon phases of the northern and southern hemispheres, including 135 gears, and the error is reduced to 1 day every 122 years. Jaeger-LeCoultre Perpetual Calendar 8-Day Power Reserve Master Watch: Moon phase profit and loss are indicated by a fixed pattern symbol, and the pointer is used for real-time indication. Movado Red Skymap watch: on the museum dial full of constellation images, the small moon phase window is located at 10 o’clock, full of science fiction.
But what does the precision of 135 gear rely on as a measure? The 28.5 days we generally know is actually a simplified value that follows the habit of rounding to zero. It is not known that nature has always been tireless on some important issues. It also provides humans with precision in the moon cycle. An infinite number of N digits after the decimal point. ‘Whether the periodic number followed by the moon phase structure is accurate to one decimal place determines its accuracy.’ Cao Weifeng, a watch engineer, told reporters that ’59 teeth are accurate to one decimal place, so there is an error of about two and a half days, but If it is accurate to the third place after the decimal point, the error can be reduced to more than one hundred years before it accumulates one day. ‘According to the data, the most accurate moon phase table currently comes from Nomos, which is only one day after a thousand years.
So when you hear the words ‘old moon phase’ and ‘new moon phase’, you are talking about the distinction between 59 teeth and 135 teeth. The former is represented by the inventor of the moon phase, Blancpain. Due to the small number of teeth, it can be seen that it skips a small distance every day like a calendar, while the latter is slightly smaller in a continuous, short interval. Moving the angle, the naked eye seems to be a continuous slow crawling process, which is represented by Lange.
Look at the moon’s face
From the design point of view, the moon phase watch is also quite troublesome on the ‘Moon’. Some work hard on the material, use gold to create a golden moon, and also use platinum with a dark blue dial to show the ‘clean’ mood. In addition, on the watches of many famous factories in Switzerland, the delicate carving technique is also used on the moon, so the moon you see has eyebrows, eyes, nose, mouth, and some also have two playful beards or A charming mole. Exquisiteness is exquisite, and the craftsmanship is also very valuable. However, whether such a ‘moon queen’ or ‘moon old’ is accepted by the public aesthetics, many people have even suggested that the ‘vintage face’ of the moon is like a wrinkled grandpa At first glance, I was panicked.
Different cores with the same shape
The moon phase tables currently on the market have roughly three types of moon phase windows: the most common retro semicircle, the simpler circle, and the pointer display on the small dial. Although the external form is very different, the mechanical structure and operation principle under the dial are almost the same. Therefore, although some people have questioned whether the moon phase disk shown by the pointer can still be called ‘lunar phase’, the exact same movement is justified.
Wearers of the Southern Hemisphere, please look backwards
There is also a small awkward problem in the moon phase table: the moon phases observed by the residents of the northern and southern hemispheres are exactly the opposite, and most of the watches we see show the northern phases. This design cannot be reversed by the wearer, and there are few custom-made words in the southern hemisphere. So the only way for wearers of moon phase watches in the southern hemisphere is to look at the watch upside down. ‘After all, it’s not just watch production. The main market for watches is also in the Northern Hemisphere.’ Industry sources explain this.
Of course, there are a few exceptions, such as the IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar watch. There are two rounds of mirrored relative moons in the moon phase window at 12 o’clock, and the moon phases of the northern and southern hemispheres are also displayed. Lange also launched the Southern Cross watch, Southern Cross, but from the introduction of the northern hemisphere moon phase watch Ursa Major, this is just another concept.

Carl F. Bucherer: The Great Wheel Originating In Time

Since its founding in 1888, Carl F. Bucherer is based in Lucerne. The most beautiful and ideal holiday city in Switzerland has a rich historical and cultural heritage, and countless artists have endlessly got here Inspiration. In 1332, Lucerne and its surroundings formed a Swiss canton, becoming one of the first four cantons in the Swiss Confederation, and soon became the administrative center of the Confederation. Since its inception, Bucherer has continued to innovate and challenge new heights in the industry. It has continuously designed and manufactured exquisite watches with extraordinary craftsmanship; its influence radiates to Europe and even major cities around the world.

Bucherer engraved with new gold logo

Based on the centuries-old tradition, Bucherer has always adhered to the tradition of precision watchmaking. Masters of watchmaking masters and designers with perfect diamond inlaying skills continue to create top-of-the-line works, which has led many watchmakers to take the lead. This impression is now presented directly on the brand’s latest golden logo, showing that it belongs to the golden age of Bucherer. The ‘power wheel’ on the logo, as its name implies, means ‘a steady stream of power.’ Bucherer’s ‘Non-stop Creativity’ is the pillar of the brand’s spiritual cloud, giving the brand an infinitely attractive charm like time and driving every part of Bucherer. Similarly, as an extremely powerful storm wheel with no established route, it is just like the role of Bucherer in the traditional watchmaking industry in nature-‘Never follow the waves’.

Bucherer’s new watch factory in Lengnau

Independent watchmaking
The founder Karl Friedrich Bucherer is a very self-confident person who left the company with the motto ‘Perseverance’ and ‘Independence’, which even affected his two sons and grandchildren to join the family enterprise.
Bucherer’s new own watch factory in Lengnau confirms that the brand has continued to succeed by relying on the concept of ‘not following the flow,’ and strives to build it into a new technology center. The completion of the new factory and the development and practical application of the new movement have enabled Bucherer to enter the ranks of a few Swiss watch factories that have full independent watchmaking capabilities. The new factory and new movement of Bucherer not only mean great progress and achievement for the brand, but also provide consumers with more diversified and personalized product choices, and together witness the development of the brand into the ‘Golden Age’ ‘New miles. ‘

Breakthrough and create ‘core’ never-ending creativity
In order to take the lead in future technological competitions, Bucherer has been working hard to strengthen his strength in the field of professional watchmaking. In 2007, Bao Qilai began to acquire the movement factory, which laid the foundation for the brand to independently develop and produce mechanical movements and complex function modules.
Unlike the Swiss movements that are commonly manufactured in batches, Bucherer’s CFB A1000 and CFB A2000 self-produced movements can be discerned at a glance: compared with the classic semicircular automatic rotor, the outer edge The oscillating weight can show the movement almost completely in front of people’s eyes, thus exaggerating the beauty of machinery. The designers of this series of movements also specially arranged the circuit board to show its exquisite workmanship and ingenious structure with regular and classic geometric lines. At the same time, the large size of the outer edge also increases the efficiency of the winding, ensuring its full power. From a mechanical point of view, this movement also has the characteristics of stable performance and strong durability. At the same time, it also leaves ample room for future function expansion, making it an excellent basic movement.

CFB A2000 automatic movement

At the time of launching the CFB A1000 movement, Bucherer became the first watch brand to mass-produce this type of outer rotor automatic winding movement. In order to continue the spirit of continuous brand innovation, the company launched a new development based on the CFB A1000 CFB A2000 movement. The CFB A2000 movement is also wound by an outer oscillating weight. The structure of the movement is simple and compact, winning the first technology and aesthetics of Boucheret; the Geneva stripes of the movement plywood and balance wheel are beautifully decorated. A tribute to watchmaking tradition. The assembly of the escapement of the movement can adjust the hairspring parts by itself, so that the length of the hairspring remains unchanged and the performance is very accurate; the movement frequency of the movement is 28,800 times per hour (4Hz), and it is adjusted by the fine adjustment components on the four balance arms To maintain the accuracy and stability of the movement, more precise and slim, all movements will be certified by the COSC Swiss official observatory.

CFB A2000 self-winding movement

The elegant temperament of the Marion Longyuan power watch complements the cutting-edge technology: At the time of its launch, the first self-made movement of the CFB A1000 by Bucherer became the first brand to mass-produce the automatic movement of the outer oscillating movement at that time. Based on this, the brand-new movement CFB A2050 introduced this year, which also uses two-way outer oscillating weight to store energy on the chain, has a simple and compact structure, and has won the first technology and aesthetics of Bao Qilai; the movement plywood and balance wheel The Geneva stripe of the splint is polished and beautifully decorated, which is a tribute to the Swiss watchmaking tradition; the power reserve of the movement is about 55 hours, making the Marion Dragon Power watch the best companion on the wrist of an elegant gentleman.